The sign of the wear of the oil sumps. What are the oil separators and how to calculate their wear. How to indicate the need to replace

The engines of modern automobiles may in their design contain a lot of small, but even more important parts for proper functioning. If you don’t immediately reveal those that the stench has come into oblivion and don’t get used to the old ones, then the consequences of this for the power unit, and, apparently, the budget and nerves of the motorist can be even more summative. Before the number of such "dribnits" one can see oil scrapers.

The stench is part of the design of the gas-fired mechanism (timing) of the engine of the internal combustion of the car. The rosemary of their eyes is small and the stench spreads out, not in plain sight, but in the middle of the engine.

As you could understand, this article will be dedicated to the oil pans. Here you know, now you need oil-removing caps and signs of wear.

Valve and oil pans.

Oil pans are necessary in engines in order to prevent oil from getting into the combustion chamber. They are often called valve seals, and the name in the new world plays the same role as the stink.

The oil sumps are placed directly on the valve stems, and are made up of three main parts:

Support;
Vlasne cap;
Spring.

The support is a sleeve that is made from steel. Vaughn plays the role of the frame and the details and hope and necessity. Vlasne kovpachok - the main element of the detail. Yogo is prepared from a special, resistant to high temperatures and a splash of strength rubbing gumi. The cap is installed in the middle of the bushing, and being mounted on the valve, tightly encloses the stem and removes oil. And the spring is mounted in a special caliper sleeve and ensures maximum adhesion to the stem.

As soon as the oil is pumped, as if the buckets are responsible, then it is supplied to the gas-spreading mechanism by an oil pump. It is recognized for the purpose of polishing timing parts, which you can learn on your own, and increase your resource. At the very same hour, the middle of the cylinders was drained through the valve groups on the edge, splintering, igniting, tasting soot, which is stingy on their walls.

It should be respected that in today's internal combustion engines, oil pans are brought to function in the harsh minds of high temperatures and mechanical advances. In addition, they are negatively poured into speeches that are avenged in the knowledge of the masculine homeland. That is why the victorious victorious culverts are used for the preparation of the most durable, grating-resistant, thermal and chemical materials.

Removal of oil collectors

As if it were another detail of the engine of the internal combustion, regularly observing a combination of negative inflows of a different kind, oil-removing the caps step by step, but not overwhelmingly worn out. Most of the humic part is navantage, which wears out elasticity for an hour, cracks appear in it. In addition, with a good hour and under a surge of high temperatures, the spring force is inevitably weaker. As a result, the wear of the oil collectors should be brought to the point where the oil is not removed from the valve stems and is drained into the combustion chamber of the internal combustion engine.

As practice shows, the resource of oil-removing buckets, which are installed in modern internal combustion engines, is approximately 100,000 kilometers per day. Since the car has passed the whole period, the stench will change. Fakhіvtsі also recommend minyati maslosemniє kovpachki і in dviguny avtomobilіv, yakі protyag trivalny hour buli vvedenі z ekspluatatsії.

In addition, it is not uncommon to trap in such a way that the oil-removing pads for quiet and other reasons wear out before the hour. In such moods, the stench, it was understood, also needs to be replaced by new ones. About those that the hour of this kind of repair of the dvigun has come, note a characteristic sign.

wear marks

Oil sump bags.

The following signs may indicate the removal of oil sumps:

Іstotno virіs vitrata oil;
Appearing soot on the electrodes of candles;
Appearance of exhaust gases of a blue color at the moment of warming up the engine.

Improvement of the “oil appetite” of the engine when removing the oil-removing cups is quite logical and reasonable. On the right, in that masculine motherland, as they do not know them from the valve stems, they sink into cylinders and burn. Obviously, it is irrevocably involved in the power unit's oiling system, and the oil must be added more often, lower sound.

Shards of oil are burning, then the products of the mountain, which are blue in color, come out of the name, farbuyuch in the same color of the exhaust gases. If the engine is fired up, then the oil burns almost exactly, so blue smoke is known.

Cream of this, like oil, is not taken with dippers, consumed in cylinders, then it is poured into the cylinders, then it is deposited on the electrodes and the candles are lit. Obviously, after burning, soot is established on them.

Services

As soon as the signs of wear and tear of the oil-removal chambers begin to appear, it is necessary to re-check the gas-discharge system of the car, and it is necessary to pay special attention to the oil-removal chambers themselves. Do not know motorists to work on their own, less do not have to go to the technical service station, and carry out diagnostics to do not know fakhivtsi.

Please note that it is strongly not recommended to operate the engine with worn oil pans. As practice shows, how to ignore a defect and not learn yoga, then it is practically inevitable:

Reduce the pressure on the power unit;
At idle, the wines become more and more deaf from time to time;
Turnaround become "swim";
Significantly lower compression;
On cylinders, damaged and valve seats, carbon deposits appear.

If there is a lot of soot, then the first appearance is a serious more serious "dzvinok", the fragments of the first resolution can lead to a very expensive overhaul of the power unit.

How to change oil pans?

If the car driver sees that the oil separators on your car were worn, then it is necessary to replace them. This procedure is successfully carried out by the master of the technical service station for cars.

Give the engine a bit of stench to cool down, after which the timing cover is dismantled. Dali on the rozpodіlnomu and kolіnchastyu shaft stench roar vіdpovіdnі marks, after which the camshaft is known. At the onset stage, the valves “dry out” (so the springs are removed from them), the wrong oil-removing caps are dismantled from them. For whom fakhіvtsі most often vicorist or zvichaynі pasatizhі, but it is specially recognized for tsієї meti collet. Then the valve stems are smeared with oil, after which they are put on new oil pickups. Gave the selection of the gas-fired mechanism of the car to be carried out in the reverse order.

Video on the topic

All modern engines of internal combustion are equipped with a whole galaxy of special improvements. Up to one of them you can see oil extractors. How can you guess the name, the stench is tied to the oil in the car unit. Vzagali, it is more correct to call such caps valve seals. You are in a dangerous situation, if excess oil is consumed in the combustion chamber. Irrespective of those who use special gums to produce oil extractors, their operational resource is great. At the time of wear of the kovpacks, it is possible to increase the loss of oil, as well as the establishment of soot in the engine and the improvement in the stability of the yoga robot. Let's take a look at it, how old the oil-removing pads "live", like the stench of the vikonan and what they pour into their operational resource, if it is necessary to change them, and also we will analyze the features of the choice of new types.

Briefly about the functions

The engine has 2 types of valves: intake, intake. The leather of the valves is ruffled so that the upper part can contact with the slatted shaft. On the third side of the valve under the shaft there is an oily mist. The type of valve will depend on the one located on the other side. If you need a suspension of drops of gasoline, then the valve is inlet. If the lower side of the valve goes into the area of exhaust gases, then the valve is called exhaust.

Now we turn to those oil-removing caps. So, as a rozpodіlny shaft means a large amount of oil for normal operation, too much oil can seep into the combustion chamber of the engine. Tse vkray nebazhano. Oil seals, stinks of valve seals, and serve as a barrier between a large amount of hot, spiced oil and combustion chambers. The oil, which is smeared by the stem during reversible forward movement, is itself oil-removing by caps.

Why are high levels shown to the valve seals? Everything is simple. At the combustion chamber, oil can be consumed on the valve stem, de vono, having mixed with a hot-smelling mess, it will burn. Modern oils are free of additives and, in principle, do not burn completely. When they burn, soot is formed on the valve seats and soot. "Plates". In the world of accumulated soot, the valve simply starts to curl up. Nagar will also be established on piston rings, cylinder walls and upper surfaces of pistons. Everything to bring to a serious accelerated wear of the dvigun and a decrease in the efficiency of yoga robots - sumish simply will not burn with a proper rank. Even if the caps do not know the oil, they themselves will be smarter up to the splash of an aggressive middle, they cannot be called effective.

Attachment and resource of oil-removing buckets

All the elements of the strengthening of the dvigun are made simple, simple. The caps aren't bad. As soon as it was appointed, the stench of the vicons from the special gumi. The stench can finish a folding uniform, and if you guess about those who hang their temples to the point of tightness, it’s hard to guess that the stench is not so simple in the choir. І z such elements of stench are formed:

Support. Tse steel sleeve, yak vikonuє the role of the metal frame;

Spring. Without a spring, the edge of the cap will not fit snugly enough to the stem;

Kovpack. The main element of the valve gland. Prepared for acrylate or recycled rubber. The last one had wider caps made of PTFE. The cap itself can see excess oil from the valve stem.

The use of rubber in the capacity of the main material for the cap is lined with tim, which vin vіn vіrіznyаєєєєєєєєєєєєє ієєєєєєє ієєєєєє єєєієєєє єєєєє 'єєєє '' ґґґ'єєєє ''' rubber in the quality of the main material for the kovpachka umovoleno tim, scho vіn vіn vіrіznієієєєєєєєєєєє ієєєєєєєє єєєєієєєєє єєєєє єє 'є єєї 'а а а а а а ' So, as the vibrators are zatsіkavlenі in that, schobіlnjuvachі dvigunіv buli maximally dovgoіchnі, the stench began vikoristovuvat tsey material. Yogo can not be called cheap, so the price of the end of the road for a lot of car enthusiasts is respected. Packed with a slipped through and finished with folding technology of virobnits, oil extractors with expensive, ale dovgovichnymi ushchilnyuvachami.

As for the cost of an operational resource, then everything is not so simple. A lot of companies produce analogues of valve seals, which may not be as high quality as the originals. On the right here is that the valve passes over 1000 cycles in 60 seconds. The temperature in this zone is too high, and the cups are warmer than oil and gas. As if the stench of vykonanі z materialіlіv nizkoі їkoї kostі or you can't think of the greatest geometry in the distance, their resource will not be great. Good oil pickups can run over 100,000 kilometers. If the car has been idle for a long time (over the river), then the oil seals are heavily wasted in a surplus resource. It’s worth noting that the rubber begins to loosen up, and the spring material of old age, through which it stops pressing the cap with sufficient force.

Removal of oil collectors

It is not difficult to calculate the wear of valve seals. I see the primary and secondary signs of wear, although in some weathers the stench can indicate the wear of other elements of the engine. Let's take a look at these signs in the context of a possible exit from the fret of the same kovpachkiv. The first signs, on the way you can’t help but respect, tse:

Change the color of exhaust gases. The fluff becomes thicker and becomes whiter or bluish in color;

Appearance of soot on operational spark plugs;

Increased oil vitrata (up to a liter per thousand kilometers of skin).

To be on the lookout for an overexploited one, it is necessary to take a look at the oil pickups. Nutrition about those, how to get to them, we can look at the world a little bit later. Let's just say that when wearing the caps, it is recommended to look at the valves and the gas underflow mechanism. Before the second signs of the wear of the kovpachkіv, one can see the steps:

Significant decrease in tautness of the dvigun;

Reduced compression in the engine;

Appearing soot, like on the damaged ones, so on the cylinders of the engine;

Appearance of "floating" revolutions and vindication of the situation, if the engine is deaf at idle.

The secondary signs of wear are not so unambiguous, since the stench can show on the way out of the fret to the sprat of the dvigun. In case of any kind of fluctuation, as if you are posterіgaєte vyscheperelіchene, it is recommended to look around the unit fakhіvtsem. Remember those who, when they got sooty before the exit of the engine from the fret and further overhaul, with which you can fly into a penny - here it’s better to play it safe and see the day at the look around at the factory with car units.

Self-supporting replacement of oil collectors

It is immediately obvious that manipulations with the engine are not varto zdiisnyuvaty, not looking beyond the shoulders of profile enlightenment and, zrozumilo, dosvіdu. As a car enthusiast, having shown the way out of kovpachkiv from the fret, and still want to improve the engine independently, then for the first time you should familiarize yourself with the manuals. On the right, the process of removing and replacing the kovpack will be directly dependent on the fact that any model of car and engine will happen to work. Here you can see a few stages of work, which are the same for all cars:

Dochekatisya, while dvigun oholone;

Remove the cover of the gas-spring mechanism;

Increase the signs on the camshaft and the camshaft, after which loosen the drive and dismantle the camshaft;

Remove valve springs (“dry out”);

For help tongs, take the Oil-removing cap;

Lubricate the valve stem and the inside of new caps with oil (you will need to remove the spring before them);

Having installed the stuffing box in the frame, put the yoga on the stem with a swedish hand and press it in until it stops. It is categorically not recommended to press the force - the pressing is to be done with light blows, step by step;

Dress the springs on the caps, after which the valves should be dry;

Turn the engine and timing elements on the plate.

As the problem with the oil pans has been delayed for a long time, then the cylinder head should also be removed and the internal empty engines should be cleaned from the soot. Also, it would be impossible not to notice that the oil-removing caps are vikonan so that their dismantling without special skills and tools is practically impractical. As if you were wondering that the replacement robot was too foldable, don’t stumble on it - let the robot fahivtsya.

How to choose oil separators

Practically all experts recommend buying and installing those components of the engine, like a victorious car manufacturing plant. Tsya recommendation is often violated, so, vtim, don't make mistakes. Right in that, in the world, the development of technologies for the production of oil-removing kovpacks and the development of new materials and end-of-life technologies can turn the original from the exploitation resource. Tse, as a rule, is true for kovpacks under the engines of old cars. For example, rubber caps can successfully replace fluoroplastics. We still recommend to search for auto parts by:

Parameters of the car i, zokrem, dvigun;

The code of the obvious kovpacks.

So you will definitely know the best option for repair. Be especially respectful when asking about the parameters of the car. Everything is important here: the model, the latest information on the engine, the release of the transport license. If you know the original, then it will be easy to know the analogue. When choosing an analogue, it is especially important to pay respect to the virobnik company, as well as to the country, in a kind of a cap of conduction (most virobniks can be backwaters in dekilkoh kraina). Do not forget about those that analogues are often updated. It is easy to reveal the information by the weight of the special labels (reversal codes, QR codes, holograms), the low quality of the package itself, the color of the virobi, as well as the weight of the branded packaging or variations in the design of the packages.

As already mentioned in the previous paragraph, often the analogues of the oil-removing caps can reverse the originals for the quality of the exploitation resource. So, for example, factory seals for engines of Mercedes-Benz M110 and M123 models (fluoroplastic) can be replaced with more modern analogues of rubber. Choose varto between the virobs of the upcoming virobniks:

Elring (Nimechchina);

Ajusa (Spain);

NOK (Japan);

Goetze (Nimechchina);

Victor Reinz (Nimechchina-USA).

In fact, these are the firms that supply their products to the factories of auto concerns. Under the names of high-ranking brands, you can find spare parts of OEM quality. It's a pity that the oil separators of these companies are often refilled. Be especially careful when choosing analogues in Ajusa, Elring and Victor Reinz. Practice shows that the Spanish product itself is updated especially often, because of which the maker itself cannot gain a good reputation today.

Bad analogues can be found in the catalogs of Musashi (Japan), Corteco (Nimechchina), Stone (Japan-USA). It is evident that the deyak motorists determine the average quality of the oil-removing kovpacks of these companies. From three refurbished firms, only the reputation of Corteco is worth a lot of products, as they exploit their German brand. If there is an analogue of the types of small-sized packers, then it may be sing-songly to choose one of the pickers from the list above. Beware of varto only low-yield drops.

For revealing oil-removing buckets, get a branded product. Fortunately, this year will be enough for the mother under the hand of photography, known in the borders. Turn your respect into varto into spears of speeches. First of all, for branding. For example, on NOK packs (Japan) there is a marking with a code and the name of a brewing company. On the other hand, broken caps are often worn in the wrong color. For example, in a set with branded virobs, one cap is completely gray, and the other is a small element. Everything is simple with the helpers - the insults of the cape show up as sirimi. Thirdly, the additions may be more firm. Often the original diameter of the shotgun is 1.5 mm larger than the original one. І, fourthly, give respect to the price. Pіdrobki zavzhd cheaper. If the average market price of a cap is $3 smart, and you knew the same, but for $1, then we will add it with a high degree of confidence.

The oil pan is an important element of the internal combustion engine. You can’t ignore the sack in a fret in some way. It is necessary to bring the heart to the oil until the oil has been increased and to the robotic engine in an abnormal mode, and after an hour until the yoga is out of tune. The repair of the engine will cost ten times more expensive, and the purchase of oil sumps and a robot according to their installations will be less expensive. Fortunately, analogues and originals are easy to find. When purchasing these spare parts, carefully check their correctness. The number of additives is very large, and the additives are seriously violated by the originals, as they are vikonannya and can become the cause of the appearance of soot in the engine and the loss of oil.

Among the possible reasons for the increase in the loss of oil can be considered, in the order of the complexity of the use:

oil patches through gaps in gaskets, oil seals, as well as cracks in the engine crankcase, cylinder blocks, oil pressure sensor, etc.
removal of oil pans
wear of the cylinder-piston group
oil burnout

The first group of reasons is determined by a visual review. Use similar reasons, laying the head to the block and cracks in the block of cylinders, it’s easy to do it. The next step is to replace the wrong details (oil seals, gaskets). Vinyatok to put here - head gasket to the block and block of cylinders. In order to replace them, it is necessary to take out the rozpodilchiy shaft (with the help of the tips, what to whimper), and then - the head itself; otherwise I will rebuild the engine. Obviously, the operation is similar to the experienced mechanic, not in a difficult warehouse, but the axle to an ordinary motorist ...

Another reason is the removal of small-sized kovpachkіv. About the signs of the need to replace them and let's talk a troch below. This operation can also be carried out, as a rule, by removing a rozpodilny shaft (one or a dekilkoh - in the fall according to the model of the car). Vtіm, іsnuyut avtomobilі, on yak tserobiti it is not necessary. However, it’s worth doing some rude vipadki.

Nareshti, wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group. To use yoga, necessary, as it seems, a major overhaul of the engine. As a rule, it is timed before the next repair operations, but at the same time: replace the crankshaft liners, repair (grind) the crankshaft necks, replace the valves, replace / remount the valve guides, without seeming to change the wear (for that hour) of the rocker valves, valve springs.

Here we can look at the signs that tell us about symptoms similar to the withdrawal oil extractors. Axis їх perelіk (possibly, not correct):

signaling failure

Smoke Whiplap during regassing

Vitrata Paliva Movement

Falling sweating and priyomistost, failures in the robotic dviguna,

Shvidko zarudnyuetsya oil

kraplinne zapalyuvannya

It is significant that it is neobov'yazkovo, that all the signs appeared at the same time.

Dim from the oil filler neck *

Which can be used in some way, for example, as if on a working engine, open an oil filler neck. On a good (just right) engine, you’ll just get out again (as an option - from a house of oil mist, so you can’t tell about injustice). As the engine is running out of oil, and from the neck there is a strong dim - already, the piston group is worn out. If the dvigun oil is stained, and from the neck it is clean, then on the right you can buti (ale, not obov'yazkovo) in oil pans.

* So, it’s a sign, rather, not to tell about the removal of oil-removing caps.

The threaded part of the candles is covered with oil

Tse - also one of the symptoms of the need to replace oil sumps. Vtim, don't worry. Tobto bovaє, scho kovpachki vzhe vmagayut zamіni, but the threaded part of the candles is still dry. For the oil in the burning chamber is still not too rich, it starts to burn.

Why is the threaded part of the candle covered with oil for brains, if it is not to go into the combustion chamber? It would have been better, even if in a cut between a candle, and a head block, if there are gaps, then the stench is minimal and does not exceed 0.2 mm?

Let's take a look at the robotic engine process. On the right, in the fact that at the time of the intake of a portion of the combustible sum into the cylinder, oil is consumed, while in the cylinder (as well as in the threaded gaps of the candles), there is a present discharge. Potim sumish squeezing. Naturally, it (including the fact that it is smeared in it with oil and gasoline) begins to penetrate into the mouth, where it is possible, including the threaded gaps of the candles. Potim sumish podpalyuetsya, burns. It burns out all over the place, crim, like once, threaded gaps. Because the stench is rather small (in the region of 0.1 ... 0.3 mm), the gaps in the floor are small, as a rule, it cannot expand. At the bag - oil accumulates in the threaded gaps. Gasoline vaporizes, more candles are heated.

The candles are covered with black soot. Movement of the smoke from the exhaust pipe

Nagar can (ale, not obov'yazkovo) oily. As a rule, when wearing oil-removing wines, we terry them. If you want, even bagata sumish can also give terry black soot. Blue-gray, sometimes black smoke from the muffler to speak about the removal of the cylinder-piston group, as well as about the supernaturally rich sumishi.

However, similar symptoms are also observed in case of wear of oil sump packs (blue fluff during regassing), malfunction of the priming system (the moment of priming is incorrect, “break through” high-voltage dross, the cover of the distributor, the roller and in., and also, possibly, inaccuracy ... signalization), damage to the regulation of the fire supply system (for example, carburetor, injectors, etc.).

Tobto black smoke from a muffler and covered with black soot of a candle is far from starting є svіchennyam supernaturally rich sumіshi. Offenses of these signs are also manifested both when the oil-removal caps are worn out, and when the priming system is damaged. Why?

To the one who, if the system fails, the ignition of the spark on the candles will be inaccurate, although it may look quite pleasant. Obviously, the burning of oil-polyvno-povitryanoy sumishi will be also incomparable. Socrema, that oil and gasoline will vanish in the summish, will burn GIRSH (lower with a good spark), so that black soot will be established, creating the appearance of an overly enriched sum. For example, it was the very thing to watch out for in times, if it was “cunningly” breaking through.

signaling failure

Vaughn can also be the cause of sooting on the candles, so that a lancet can pass through it, which can be heated to the frying. Expansion of the vipadok - if the roses in the signalization may have bad contacts (if the stench is old and/or broken from Chinese metal). When you pickle it, you will be aware, then “not much”, then (for a fraction of a second) you will see. And so - steadily.

Sposterіgavsya vpadok, if the car periodically stalled on the move after 10 ... 20 hvilin їzdi. І after - navіdrіz was supposed to start up. However, beyond 10 ... 15 hvilinnoy parking - it started up, like in what did not happen and їhala stіlki, skіlki needed.

Note: Exactly the same behavior of the machine in another turn was caused by a malfunction of the oil extractors.

In addition, the car often (ale, don’t start) stalled when driving uphill. The recommendations of servicemen to repair the eating system, of course, did not lead to anything. The stench brought us less to spend money and an hour to think. However, the problem was solved again after the introduction of electrical contacts in two signaling roses (by way of the roses and a light touch of the roses).

Why did the car start after 10 ... 15 hvilinnoy parking? To the one who, in the course of an hour, had reached the signaling block, the contact details of the roses were changing in size (under the influence of a thermal sound), the troubles were moving visually one of one (that rose "tato" lightly struck the whole "rose ma" ), it seemed like a bi rag, licking their contacting surfaces, it was visible one of one and the contact for the next hour was renewed.

And why is the dvigun іnodi DLMG with the Russian car uphill? Because in the signaling unit, there is a panel of accessories, when changing the orientation of the machine vertically, the three moving to a different position of the signaling unit, as a result, sometimes the electrical contacts are broken. And if the car moved to a horizontal surface, the contacts were renewed.

Smoke Whiplap during regassing

The symptoms of lightening the smoke flurry during regassing are similar - both in the case of a malfunction in the oil-removing buckets, and in the event of a malfunction in the cylinder-piston group. The difference lies in the fact that the shovels are wrong, then the bagatora gassings (4 ... 7 times) usually lead to a (time-hour) smoky whirlwind. As a rule, there is no such thing as permanent dimlenia. Just like in case of a malfunction of the cylinders and pistons, the smoke whistle after dekilkoh regassing DOES NOT KNOW.

The reason is that in the first fall, the oil accumulated close to the edge of the oil scraper cap and the valve stem, as a result of a sharp pressure on the gas pedal, it is IMMEDIATELY blown through the gap between the valve stem and the guide sleeve, into the cylinder, which can be carried out for a long time vykhlopiv during regassing. If you see all the oil nearby, then the smoke will not be swept away (until the oil is taken up again). Todiyak, in the rest of the fall, the oil is consumed in the cylinder independently, in addition, they sharply pressed on the gas pedal; regardless of that, how many times and with what frequency її pressed.

When working at idle, when the cylinders are worn out, and / or the pistons will be thick and gray (like in the old Radian motorcycles, chainsaws of the Druzhba type), the same way when the oil-removing caps are worn out, the wines will be (on the back) like bi “bluish”. As if marveling at the beast at the blown pipe with a working engine, you can’t remember it forever. And the axis of the glance ALONG the swirling pipe, as if marveling at the back of the car, sometimes (although not straight) gives the opportunity to look at such a bluish dimok.

So, as when the engine is warmed up, we dim the muffler from the muffler, then it is a sign of the wear of the oil-removing chambers themselves, but not the cylinder-piston group. Before we speak, another reason for the appearance of white smoke on a warm engine is the sinking of a cooling pad in the engine cylinder due to a head gasket failure.

Respectfully, the appearance of a white dim, which you know after warming up, on an unheated engine, on the other hand, is an absolutely normal symptom. Adzhe as a result of the mountain of pale-smelling sumishi settles down, zokrema, water. Bet that and become commemorated until the engine and muffler warm up. For reasons of a muffler, they can inspire vilitati drops of water. It often happens that water drips from the end of the muffler's trumpet.

If the muffler warms up, the water vapor on the walls will no longer condense - and there will be more steam. Stop dripping water.

Too much combustible sumish will also give a flurry of increased smoke, including during regassing. Yakiy, nachebto, DO NOT MAY know after bagatorazovyh regassing.

However, really, not everything is so simple. I was able to get into a bad mood, if through a very rich madness the engine of a car with great difficulties started up "in the heat" (the same time it started up "in the cold" from the pivoberta). After bagatorazovyh regasifications, a flurry of increased dimness (blackening) occurs. However, the problem was bula - itself in an overworldly rich, hot-potted sumish.

Vitrata Paliva Movement

On the right, in the fact that the oil, which is consumed in the cylinders with the robotic engine, complicates the hearth of the hot-smelling sum. Obviously, in order to remove the engine from the engine, it will be necessary to have a greater amount of oil in the sum, and lower in times of the amount of oil in the sum.

Before speech, not only oil sumps, but practically all other malfunctions of the engine also lead to increased vitrati, whether it be the wear of the cylinder-piston group, the failure of the ignition system or the signalization, the suboptimal storage of fuel sum.

Falling sweating and ingestion, failures in the robotic motor

It manifests itself in reduced dynamics when gaining speed, overtaking. And you can also watch for a “failure” when pressing on the gas pedal. Tobto you press on the gas, and the car INODY, instead, to rush forward, as if by a galm, the engine stalls. Release the gas pedal or press it CORRECTLY - the engine works normally. In such situations, call to recommend adjusting or repairing the fuel supply system. It is more prosunuti to recommend that you also pay attention to the system of zalyuvannya.

Often tse virno, ale, don’t worry. The second time - with a sharp increase in the expansion of the first hour of the stroke of the intake of the hot-water sumish (which is the result of a sharp pressure on the gas pedal), the discharge is transmitted, through the direct valve bushings, to the oil pan. If the stench is worn out, then a portion of oil is poured out, as if it were consumed in a cylinder, pouring a candle into the fire, tobto (Spochatka - timchasovo, and then - postiyno) mimicking її z robots. Tsim and the “failure” in the robotic engine is explained. Like a car possessing a catalytic converter, I’m “choosing” to get out of tune.

Shvidko zarudnyuetsya oil

So, ce tezh is one of the symptoms of the wear of oil-removing chambers, far from all symptoms. Why is the oil zabrudnyuetsya, swelling dark, potim - black color? There are two main reasons, as a rule:

wear of engine parts and consumption of products in oil
soothing soot, viklikane burning oil, which avenges in a hot-smelling sumishi and the onset of yoga

Well, for some banal reasons, for example, the damage to the work (or the absence) of the repeated filter, as a result of which you drank in the cylinders again, as if the oil was fermented, or it’s just not the oil, it’s swirling when the engine is working, we won’t look here.

First, in principle, zagalnovidomo. Ale, with which on the magnetic samples, the oil is due to pouring, there are metal particles. And what if there are few or none?

These, obviously, are black, like they produce oil until dark, but nothing else, like coke, a snake from the walls of cylinders. And even in most modern motor oils, it is possible to add effective mild additives, which help to prevent soot. Yakby don’t stink, then as a result the piston rings are simply coked. Shvidko. Well, and their presence in oil is, by the same token, dvigun. True, the whole blow takes on oil on itself, as if it were swirling.

So, as the soot settles ACTUALLY, the particles of it become more small rosemary, the stinks, being zmitimi from the walls of the cylinder, freely pass through the oil filter and cause them to get stuck in the oil, calling out the need for an accelerated replacement.

Vtіm, here you can also mother mіstse i too much bagat sumіsh. It also gives black soot on candles, as well as on the surface of the cylinder. Obviously, after that, as the soot will be smeared with oil, wine will be spent in the crankcase of the engine.

kraplinne zapalyuvannya

It turns out, zocrema, in the fact that the engine continues to work for a few seconds, or even more, after the fact that the key was fired from the lock. So, if not, it can also be a symptom of oil getting into the combustion chamber, including as a result of a malfunction of the oil pans. Why?

Because modern gasoline cars, perhaps, all without a fault (both carburetor and injector) are equipped with a system for supplying fire with the ignition turned off. For example, as we are talking about a carburetor car, then in carburetors, as a rule, there is an idle solenoid valve, which interrupts the work flow when the ignition is turned on.

Before speech, for dovіdok, modern gasoline car zovsіm is not required to be injector. For example, a lot of Russian cars, like before, carbureted. The reason, imovirno, you have understood: it is necessary for the cars of the Russian Federation, including, to increase the superiority and the high level of repairability to build in the "clean field". I realized that cleaning and adjusting the carburetor is known to be easy and practical in any mind, even as for regulating injection engines, you can’t do without a computer. Well, the cleaning of nozzles in the "field" is definitely impossible without special equipment. That one, in fact, will not be carried along with a diagnostic computer and other attachments only in order to win the injector, if it is possible to get around, they brought their reliability and repairability with a carburetor. Well, what a little more vitrata paliva, a little more toxic gases. I, no more than that.

Let's see, the more electronic parts are in the car, the more it will be able to move out of harmony, for example, when an electromagnetic impulse is injected.

So the axis, which is to be wound when the supply of gasoline is turned on at idling, the engine continues to work, also, in the other cylinders, there are those that can burn. In this vipadka - nothing else, like oil. Roztashovane in nіy in SUCH a concentration, with a yakіy dvigun sche building (ale, do not start) pratsyuvati. It was clear that if the pickles are more worn out, more oil will be consumed in the burning chamber, even more scorching can occur. Ale, it will be important to start the car at once, oil will be added, etc.

It is important for a car to start "on hot"

It’s important to start it “in the cold”, then the reason, most of all, is not in the oil pans. There, more than anything else, there are more obvious reasons, such as the wear of the cylinder-piston group, the disruption of the fire supply, the inadequacy of the firing, including, as already mentioned, signaling. And also - the failure of the battery, starter.

And the axis, if it’s “cold”, the engine starts up from the first turn, but if it’s hot, it’s not paradoxical, you have to spin it with a starter for 5 ... 10 seconds and start more (otherwise, start the car engine more deafly, as it warms up just a little), then the reason for this as a whole, you can take out the oil pans.

On the right, in the fact that in a cold engine, the oil is also, naturally, colder. I may have a high viscosity, and to that - from the unsightly leak into the gap between the valve stem and the working edge of the oil sump. If the oil warms up, the viscosity of it decreases (and it’s a few orders of magnitude), and it’s easier for it to pass into this gap.

Wt_m, damage to the storage of fuel sums, faults in the firing, alarms are also not turned off, obviously.

Vykhlopnoi gas may be already ominous, suffocating smell

I realized that the smell of exhaust gas cannot be called natural, acceptable and safe.

In the meantime, having sniffed, let's say, to cars that are driving in the Arab Emirates (UAE), I've smashed the whiskers, and there, with the fumes on the right, go NABAGATE (!) Better, lower in Russia. Nachebto, there is a succulent flow of cars, and the whistle-blowing smell is insignificant ... For the second time, wind up close to the swollen pipe, as if you don’t get that thin smell, which is the culprit of Russian cars. One of the reasons for this, obviously, is more yakіsny gasoline. Ikyi, to the point, sche and koshtuvav richly cheaper, lower in Russia, at least until the moment when the exchange rate of the ruble drops sharply against the dollar and rich other currencies.

Tse so, aje, after all, the exhaust gas, what kind of check. However, if the combustible sumish is not sour, wrong (so-cream, as a result of falling into it a large amount of oil), then, naturally, the smell of stubble becomes richer-richer than ugly. In such vipadkah - varto troch to stand close to the swirl pipe with the robot dvigun idling - and you want to go somewhere near the smell. Neutralizer, we repeat, at which point it’s easy to get out of tune.

To that, as in a car, a whirlwind, having become especially unacceptable, suffocating, not like it used to be, varto put a lot of respect on the details of the engine, through which an overworld oil can come into the combustion chamber. Zokrema, tse - oil-removing cups.

Vіm, the reason for such a smell can be more and more bagata combustible sumish.

Worn valve guide bushings, valve stems

Obviously, by itself, the removal of these working surfaces is not to speak of the removal of oil extractors. Vin yoga is just quick, moreover, it’s true. And also use your own meaning to replace the kovpacks with new ones.

On the right, if you open it in straight bushings and / or the sliding valves are heavily worn, in the process of working the engine, you will put in a new oil-removing cap, which will be completely free of oil. Like you will need to go into the combustion chamber, like when you wear hoods.

So, after replacing the oil-removing seals, they lost their symptoms and wear, then you should think about repairing (replacing) the valves and their guide bushings. And then about the overhaul (replacement) of the dvigun, but, as a rule, until such an hour and other details, they also often vibrate their resource. There is no sense to change only the bushings and valves, even after 20 ... 30 thousand to replace the lance, star (pulley), rocker, piston, ring, as well as regrooving the cylinders, grinding the crankshaft necks.

How to eliminate backlash in straight valve bushings? If it’s rough and indicative, then the backlash can be taken great, like when the valve stem moves from the side to the side, it looks richer, lower it was on a new (repaired) engine. Although the wines are richer, the lower typical backlash is considered for a specific engine model. Well, for more accurate tuning, it is absolutely necessary to remove the block head, valve distance, etc.

They are also called valve seals. Why are the costs so small for the size of the details? Їx recognition - to prevent the leakage of oil from the head to the block in the working cylinder through the valve stem. Behind the design, the virobi is a steel bushing, “burnt” with gum and torsion with a spring. Today for the preparation of valve seals zastosovuyt acrylate rubber - mіtsnі і nadіyny piece material.

Timely replacement of oil-removing packings in favor of increased oil vitreousness and a decrease in the operational characteristics of the engine, which are due to the remixing of an overdose-polyvny sum and oily warehouse.

New needs and how to use oil scrapers

The valve zdіysnyuє zvorotno-progressive ruh zavdjaki direct contact with rozpodіlny timing shaft. If the wines are spinning, an oil suspension is created. When this valve periodically enters the zone of the combustion chamber, the presence of oily speech is unacceptable. Oil sump cups just take the oil from the valve stem, not letting it through the middle of the cylinder block.

For a good hour, the stink of getting old: the gum loses its elasticity, the details become hard and smeared, the motherland begins to seep into the combustion chamber. In order to avoid the overhead wear of the oil-removing caps, it is necessary to replace them hourly.

Signs of wear of valve seals

As soon as you see the difference between the frets of these parts, you will get rid of more serious breakdowns of the engine (details of the cylinder-piston group). Main symptoms:

From the pipe of the muffler, you can see thick smoke and white or blue smoke: the wines are at a non-trivial hour when the engine is started.
The concentration of the dim increases with a sharp pressure on the accelerator pedal or the fluctuating speed.
Vitrata mastilny material significantly increases (more than 1 liter per 1000 km).
Grease is visible on the candles, the stench is smeared with black soot. This is due to the fact that when the particles of oil are mixed in the burning chamber in a high vice, through micro gaps (dosit 0.3 mm), the names of the candles literally appear in the thread of the candle, and the trace of the oily stained glass material can be seen to wind around the screwed candle.

The wear of the oil-removing chambers cannot be lost: the components of the gas-discharge mechanism operate in the mode of increased pressure. With just one stretch, the valve will reach 150-1200 “walkers” (tacts). Plus to this, on the contrary, there is an aggressive middle: and exhaust gases.

Blame the food if you change the oil pans? If you bought a new car from you, then it will need to work after about 50-70 thousand km of driving (on imported cars, the mileage can become 180 and more thousand km).

In case of ignoring the viscous indications, it is a sign of wear of the seals in the wart to clear up problems with the engine, and itself:

decrease in sweating (the car becomes harder to “pull”) through the trash of robots and oiled candles;
"Swimming" idle speed;
when the rpm is reduced, the motor may subside.

So varto zvernuti respect for the dynamic characteristics of the car - for example, rozgіn, and vitrata of the foot. If these two parameters have not changed, then we can talk about the wear of valve seals with great frequency. Let's talk about normal compression in the engine cylinders.

Replacement of oil collectors

Trivality and foldability of the process of depositing in the type of car brand and specific model. Ale zagalnі principle zamіni can viklasti. In order to successfully replace the oil sump without removing the head, it is necessary:

Cool the engine again and remove the valve cover.
Domogtisya zbіgu marks on pulleys, rozpodіlny and crankshafts.
Loosen the drive and dismantle the camshaft.
“Dry out” the valve springs (it’s better to beat the sign).
Vikoristovuyuchi pasatizhі or special collet to remove valve seals.
Take a new virobi, smear the inside surface with engine oil. The same needs to be done with their landing place.
Put the valve seals on the stem and press them in for additional light blows with a gum hammer.
Put back the springs and "dry" їх.

If you suspect that the oil pans have not been changed for three hours, you may have to remove the cylinder head and clean the elements of the cylinder-piston group from the carbon deposits.

Replacement of caps for VAZ 2121 (16 valves)

The best way to carry out this operation is on the removed head of the cylinder block. However, even though it is impossible to do this, I can replace the valve seals with my own hands, and I can do it on the job. It is necessary to prepare ahead of time:

If everything is ready, you can go straight to the process. Algorithm for lower guidance:

Connect the positive terminal to the battery, remove the high-voltage wires and unscrew the ignition plugs.
Set the top dead center, as if you were trying, if you change the timing belt (marks on the camshafts, pulleys, crankshafts are to blame).
Take a socket wrench for 12 and remove the valve cover.
Pull out the plug, connect to the blocks.
Dismantle the spitting cat.
Know the drossel (like the fault of straying, then, having scurried with the reward, clean it).
Dismantle the valve cover and turn the guinea, for the help of which the yokes are fixed (they are pulled).
Take the constrictor and “dry out” the valve, wrapping it in front with a ganchira, so that the valve retainers do not fly apart in the different sides. One part of this attachment is indestructible, and the other part is embossed on the valve plate, simultaneously squeezing the spring and sounding “crackers”.
If the valve is poured on a new tool into the combustion chamber, then a wooden bar should be inserted into the opening of the candle, or a similar attachment to the valve.
Press the new ones out of the bushings. Zbіrku zrobіt in zvorotny order.

Varto is seriously put to the selection of oil sumps for VAZ2112. Fahivtsі recommend lower kits:

2112-1007026: all original vanes, AvtoVAZ vanes and installed on conveyors - ideal for Russian cars;
setMaster-sport;
Herzog;
trialli;
STD "Reserve";
Goetze: there is a report on which varto brewer. The greater fahivtsiv vvazhayut for the best of the same variety, not marveling at the greater vantage. On the right, in that the valve seals of the type of firms are easier to install (minimize the risks of damage) and serve the stench of the “native” VAZ ones.

When buying oil seals for a foreign car, it is necessary to insure the design of the caps. For example, on Japanese ridges there is a ledge in the middle, which runs with a hollow groove on the bushing.

I realized that such valve seals cannot be installed on European, American or Russian cars. Warto signify that the installation of the oil extraction pads with your own hands will be cheaper, so you can try to repair them quickly by trying it. The stench of the building for a deaky hour seal the gaps between the valve and the omentum. Autochemistry of a similar kind can be cheaper, lower replacement of kovpacks (navit samostiyna): it allows you to keep the car running for an hour. The most commonly used additives can be found in:

Wagner (USA);
Liqui Moly (FRN);
Lavr (Russia).

Why you can't ride with worn valve seals

When oily material gets into the combustion chamber, the PMM is mixed, as a result of which the oil begins to turn into a product of spitting and settle on the electrodes of candles at a black soot. As a result, the sparking becomes unstable, the motor is unstable and does not develop any tightness. The zabrudnennya candles were soon brought to the top of one of the cylinders. Another threatening inability is the burnout of one or two valves. Tsezhe can be brought to the top of the cylinder and sharp movements of the oil.

Oil seals, or, as they are also called, valve seals / valve seals, in the first place, they will absorb excess oil into the engine. In the same way, as the majority of engine parts, stinks are prepared from special gums and wear out for an hour and work less effectively: they are water-creamed and let excess oil pass. And tse, in his chamber, to produce oil vitrates to the point of growth. Today, we will try to find out not only what the oil scrapers are like, but also in the causes and first signs of their wear.

What are oil scrapers.

Oil pans are necessary in engines in order to prevent oil from getting into the combustion chamber. They are often called valve seals, and the name in the new world plays the same role as the stink.

The oil sumps are placed directly on the valve stems, and are made up of three main parts:

Support;
Vlasne cap;
Spring.

Rotating the oil pans in the engine

On the block of cylinders, a head with separate shafts and valves is installed. The valve stem collapses through the guide sleeve. The thermal gap between the lower and bushings is closed with caps. The stuffing box is stuffed so that the oil from the heads does not go into the combustion chamber. Necks of rozpodіlnyh valіv otrimuyut oil under a vise, and Інші vuzli - for rahunok razbrizkuvannya. Having taken the head of the engine block and disassembled it, it is possible to inflate the oil seals in the valve seats.

Removal of oil collectors

wear marks

Іstotno virіs vitrata oil; The following signs may indicate the removal of oil sumps:

Appearing soot on the electrodes of candles;
Appearance of exhaust gases of a blue color at the moment of warming up the engine.

Services

Please note that it is strongly not recommended to operate the engine with worn oil pans. As practice shows, how to ignore a defect and not learn yoga, then it is practically inevitable:

Reduce the pressure on the power unit;
At idle, the wines become more and more deaf from time to time;
Turnaround become "swim";
Significantly lower compression;
On cylinders, damaged and valve seats, carbon deposits appear.

If there is a lot of soot, then the first appearance is a serious more serious "dzvinok", the fragments of the first resolution can lead to a very expensive overhaul of the power unit.

HOW TO REPLACE maslosemniye kovpachki WITHOUT REPAIR cylinder head

As if the problem with the wear of the oil pans was revealed in due time, you can replace them without knowing the cylinder head. In a situation, if the solution of the problem has been delayed, it is necessary to dismantle the parts in order to clean up carbon deposits from the pistons and valves. Depending on the model of the car and the engine, the process of replacing the oil pans will be reviewed. Ale, you can see some of the main stages that are critical for all cars: Dali znіmaєtsya lid of the gas-spreading mechanism; The tags are roiling on the bell-shaped and rozpodilny shaft, after which the drive is weakened and the rozpodilny shaft is lifted;

The valve springs are being dismantled - they are “drying out”; Vykoristovuyuchi pasatizhі or collet, it is necessary to remove the oil-removal cap from the valve stem; Lubricate the valve stem and the inner surface of the new caps with oil, removing the spring from them in front; Insert the stuffing box into the frame and put it on the stem, and then press it all the way with weak blows; Put the springs on the caps and dry the valves in the reverse order. As a matter of fact, the faulty oil sumps were three times a day, it is necessary to remove the cylinder head and carry out a complete replacement, to clean the engine elements from the soot.

Chi zavzhd help installation of new kovpachkіv

It was clear that the replacement of kovpachkiv, especially when you do not remove the head of the engine, is not a panacea. Be sure that the engine and after that replace the oil-removing kovpacks in the oil. In tsomu vipadku є ymovіrnіst, scho Bula allowed a pardon or non-balance at work. For example, not until the end of the pressing, or the omentum is torn. But, as a rule, the problem lies in the piston rings. The engine needs to be sorted out (remove the head), remove the pistons and change the piston rings. They change as a whole set.

Sometimes, and so, that the car should be dimmed after replacing the oil collectors. In this moment, it is not obov'yazkovo the reason for crying in the castles. Most often, it means that pardons were allowed during repairs: incorrectly selected for the size of the caps, inaccurately installed or not replaced. If the sacks are not pressed until the end, then the stench of the hour of work will be gold from the usima, so let’s say, weaving traces.

In rare situations, if the car is burning and running out of oil, you can help to decoke the piston rings without replacing the oil collectors. For this procedure, a special country is needed, so that candles are poured into the wells (after turning the rest).

Before the start of the procedure, it is necessary to install all the pistons approximately in the same position. For this purpose, sticks of one length are inserted into the candle channels, and the wrappings of the shaft by the nut reach them by one row. After that, the decoking agent is poured into the open.

After 4-6 years, it is necessary to remove the excess of the rod from the cylinders. For this candle, the channels are twisted with a ganchirka and the sprat engine is once rotated by the starter. Then the candles turn on their place and the engine starts. It will not seem like it. Possibly, you need a sprat of samples. In the process of heating, blue smoke will fall from the swirl pipe. This is a normal phenomenon, like passing after the engine is warmed up on idle wrappers. As soon as you stop dying, you need to turn off the engine and immediately remember the oil again. Leftover coke deposits will be more likely to stretch 100-200 km.

Retail between oil-removing cups and oil-removing rings.

Often, unsatisfied car drivers ask how to determine what to stand on their car: rings or caps. It shows that for the optimal operation of the engine, it is necessary to have both oil-retaining rings and buckets. The rings remove excess oil from the rumpled piston and protect the piston, and the oil pans are installed on the valve stems. Essentially, the spare parts perform one and the same function: they protect the combustion chamber from oil ingress.

The ingress of oil into the combustion chamber of the internal combustion engine is threatening with the appearance of soot on the valves and on the walls of the cylinder of the gas chamber. After that, the dvigun will be practiced more and more widde out of tune. The cream of another oil ingress into the combustion chamber aggravates the quality of the gasoline-filled sum and clogs the grooves of the piston rings.

What you need to pay attention to when buying oil sump bags:

Obviously, it is recommended to install only a few of the pads, as they are designated for a particular engine, but not always possible and docilly. First, new caps on an old motor can appear very well before speech and swear, otherwise original caps can appear expensive or inaccessible and may not be able to change analogues, so a change is necessary here and now.

In order to pick up the necessary cap and wine without skipping and going for the rozmіr, it is necessary to follow the following rules for picking up:

1. The analogue can be larger than the original only by 0.5 mm. In the other case, the spring plate can damage the cap.
2. The diameter of the cap cannot be too large, it must pass freely through the valve spring.
On the current day of the vitchiznian, the koppachkiv virobniks are delivered to the imported ones.

To hide the purchase of non-identical or counterfeit products, buy oil pans and other spare parts in our online store. We guarantee the correct selection of spare parts and we will safely replace the spare parts or the blown-out varost in the case of marriage or the wrong selection.